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The only way to eliminate the possibility of problems that can come from deteriorating polybutylene piping is to replace the pipe itself. Fortunately, this procedure is relatively inexpensive and can usually be performed by a certified plumber or re-pipe specialist. The process of re-piping (both interior and exterior) can involve some of the following procedures:

Exterior

• Slight excavation with a trencher
• Pipe-splitting (whereby the pipe is purposefully cut in half and a new, stable pipe is run through it)
• Deep trench excavation (in areas with an exceptionally deep-buried pipe system)

• The cutting of several holes in walls and floors

Poly piping runs behind the walls and under the floors of a home, but while the re-piping of a house will require that holes be cut in the walls and floors, a professional can perform it with a minimum of damage to walls and other structures. If there has already been damage to your home from a poly pipe leak, then the cost of re-piping and repairing your home will be increased considerably.

When a home containing poly piping is placed on the market, buyers will often discount the price (due to the material defect) - even if the poly has not yet shown any leaks — because it is known that poly piping will leak eventually. If a seller is aware, it is wise to replace any poly piping before putting a house on the market.

There are currently no laws specifically regarding the disclosure of poly piping on a property, but some property brokers have been sued for not disclosing the presence of polybutylene piping in buildings they sell. Real Estate brokers selling homes containing poly piping should be prepared to be held liable if buyers have a non-disclosure complaint. At the very least, both sellers buyers should be provided with some sort of information regarding poly piping and its dangers, and sellers should be given the opportunity to replace their piping before putting their home on the market.

The joints of polyethylene pipe use nylon or brass fittings and stainless steel clamps and clamp screws.

Use only pipefittings that have the National Sanitation Foundation seal, NSF. It assures that the pipe is safe for use with drinking water. There are five classes of plastic pipe and fittings that meet commercial standards established by the ASTM for potable household water:

1. Polyethylene (PE)
   This flexible or semi-rigid pipe's strength decreases as the temperature rises; therefore it is for cold-water lines only. It has pressure ratings between 80 and 160 psi. PE pipe is used for hot water heating in concrete floors; temperatures of up to 100 degrees F are common for foot comfort. For this use, however, the best brand of virgin plastic rated at 115 degrees F should be used. Also, mixing valves for water temperature control should be installed. Lines should also be laid in straight lines to avoid undue stress. PE pipe is available in diameters of up to 6 inches or larger; and it is joined by threads and clamps.
2. Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)
   This rigid pipe is available with pressure ratings of 50 to 315 psi. PVC should be used for cold-water only. It is used for some household cold water pipes and drains and in some permanent irrigation installations. Pipe for pressure water systems should be rated at least 80 psi. PVC comes in 20 or 10-foot lengths and common diameters; and it is joined with a coupling solvent. It is generally more resistant to crushing or puncturing than PE pipe, and it will stand slightly higher temperatures.
3. Acrylonitrile Butadene Styrene (ABS)
   This semi-rigid pipe has pressure ratings between 80 and 160 psi, and is suitable for sewer pipe.
4. Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride (CPVC)
   This material is similar to PVC, but it is better for handling corrosive water at temperatures 40 to 60 degrees F above the limits for other vinyl plastics. It is suitable for hot or cold water lines. Although this type of pipe was developed to handle hot water, the manufacturer's stress and temperature limitations should be checked before installing. Local plumbing codes should be consulted also.
5. Polybutylene (PB)
   This pipe is suitable for both hot and cold water lines. Although this type of pipe was developed to handle hot water, the manufacturer's stress and temperature limitations should be checked before installing. Local plumbing codes should be consulted also. In both of the classes — PB and CPVC — manufacturers sometimes make a number of pipes with different physical characteristics. Care should be taken in insuring the water system needs are met by the pipe selected.

There has been a $950 million class action suit that may provide financial aid for homeowners who have suffered damage from polybutylene piping installed under certain conditions. The deadline is expected to occur in 2007.

This is the official web site if you think you may have a claim:

http://www.pbpipe.com/index1.htm

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